This time last year, I found myself in Chiang Mai, northern Thailand’s cultural capital, for what I thought would be a solo getaway. I’d heard good things, the temples, the coffee culture, the mountain air. What I didn’t realise was that I’d landed right before Songkran, the Thai New Year, and that those two months would end up being some of the most transformative of my life.
Songkran is unlike anything else, a three-day citywide water fight laced with history, ritual, and more than a bit of chaos. It’s rooted in Buddhist tradition — a symbolic cleansing to welcome the new year. But in practice? It’s a full-blown splash-fest. Expect everything from water pistols and buckets to hoses and super-soakers. No one is safe, and no one wants to be.
But Chiang Mai during Songkran is more than just water fights. It’s music, incense, flower offerings, and the occasional surprise ice bucket from a stranger. And for me, it was also the start of something else: discovering the joy of female friendship while travelling.
A Whole New Way to Travel
I’d always been a solo traveller. The independence suited me, no one else’s schedule to consider, no compromises. But on a whim, I joined a Facebook group called Chiang Mai Nomad Girls, just to see if anyone was around. Highly recommend it btw! I tried bumble bff before this with no luck at all but someone posted about a meet up for some impromptu cocktails in the Facebook group so without even replying to the post I popped along with no expectations, no pressure and no one to miss me if I chickened out last min. Does anyone else find friend dates absolutely nerve wracking?
We met in a rooftop bar in town and in total there were about 6 girls varying in ages, occupations and origins. That’s where I met Fanny, a French digital nomad who had just bought her first house. We clicked straight away. Bonded by iced coffee, a shared love of adventure, and a mutual refusal to take life too seriously.
With Fanny, Chiang Mai became a playground. We rode the Chiang Mai Jungle Coaster, a twisty, heart-racing track through the forest that left us both laughing breathlessly. We had serene moments too, like the koi carp café, where we sipped drinks around sunken tables within the water, watching the fish glide around us in total silence.
We explored Baan Kang Wat, the city’s hidden art village, full of pottery studios, indie bookshops, and leafy courtyards made for slow afternoons. We indulged at Khao Soi Village, the best spot we found for Chiang Mai’s signature curry. We spent dreamy hours at Chom Café, with its lush garden and fairytale bridge, and made a caffeine pilgrimage to WTF Coffee Camp, which is way more photogenic than the name lets on.
Then came Aniek, a softly-spoken researcher from the Netherlands, in town to work on her dissertation. Together, we explored the quieter side of Chiang Mai. One day we ventured out to the legendary Giant Tree House, and I genuinely gasped when I saw it in person, an enormous wooden platform nestled among towering trees, straight out of a Studio Ghibli film.
Travelling with women was new to me, and it changed everything.
The Realities of Songkran
As incredible as Songkran is, it’s not without its caveats, especially in Chiang Mai. One major factor? Pollution. April is peak burning season in northern Thailand, and the air quality can be rough. Some days, you’ll wake up to a hazy sky and an AQI (air quality index) reading that makes you think twice about leaving the house. I used an air quality app religiously and kept a mask on hand — not for COVID, but to spare my lungs.
If you’re planning to experience Songkran in Chiang Mai, I highly recommend:
- Checking the AQI every morning. If it’s particularly bad, consider staying indoors or heading to a café with air purifiers.
- Packing a mask or buying one locally. Many shops sell stylish reusable ones.
- Planning a day or two inside — yoga studios, indoor co-working spaces, or museums are great alternatives.
Despite the haze, the energy in the city during Songkran is electric. Water fights erupt around every corner, and the sound of laughter and music fills the streets. It’s chaotic in the best way.
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My Songkran Highlights
One of my favourite nights was a different kind of party, a lively jazz bar tucked away in the Old City. I’d expected something sleepy and mellow, but instead, it was buzzing with energy: live bass and piano, a packed room, clinking glasses, and a crowd swaying and laughing in time with the music. After a day of water-soaked madness, it struck the perfect balance, still electric, but just the right kind of chaos.
The contrast is what makes Songkran in Chiang Mai so special. You can be drenched and dancing in the street one moment and tucked into a buzzing bar the next.
Where to Go for Different Vibes
Depending on what you’re after, Chiang Mai offers something for everyone during Songkran:
For the ultimate water fight:
- Head to Tha Pae Gate. This is where the action is — a huge, open area where crowds gather, trucks drive by with barrels of icy water, and no one escapes a soaking. It’s high energy, loud, and a must-do at least once. Expect to get very wet.
For a quieter experience:
- Try the areas around Nimmanhaemin. It’s a bit more chilled out, with stylish cafés, boutique shops, and more locals than tourists. You’ll still get splashed, but not nearly as aggressively.
For those who want to party:
- Make your way to Zoe in Yellow or Spicy Club. These backpacker staples are packed during Songkran and the music spills out into the streets. Think glow paint, dance-offs, and a LOT of Chang beer. Not for the faint-hearted, but definitely a good time.
Staying Safe (and Healthy)
Songkran is a blast. But let’s talk hygiene. The water being used? Not filtered. Often it’s scooped up from buckets that have been sitting in the sun all day. Fun, yes. Clean? Not so much.
Here are a few tips to stay safe:
- Avoid swallowing the water – Tempting as it is to laugh with your mouth open, try not to.
- Protect your ears and eyes – Wear sunglasses and consider waterproof earplugs.
- Bring hand sanitiser – You’ll be eating with your hands, and some vendors are right in the splash zone.
- Cover open cuts or wounds – Use waterproof plasters to avoid infection.
- Ditch the contact lenses – They can trap bacteria. Stick to glasses if you can.
- Hydrate constantly – You’re out in the sun all day, and it’s easy to forget to drink water when you’re being soaked in it.
- Riding a Moped – be extremely careful if you plan on riding anywhere, not only is traffic especially bad on this weekend but don’t think you’re immune to a water splashing just because you’re riding a bike!
Trust me, I learned the hard way. I ended up with an ear infection that week, and let’s just say antibiotics were not on my original packing list.
Beyond the Festival
Songkran was the centrepiece of my Chiang Mai trip, but the two months I spent there gave me so much more than just a fun festival. I found rhythm in my workdays, hitting the gym most mornings and hiking on weekends when the air cleared up. I learned where to get the best Khao Soi, found a local café/workspace that felt like home, and discovered just how healing it is to slow down and be somewhere.
And of course, there were the friendships. Fanny reminded me that even when you’re planting roots, buying a house, and building a future, you can still be curious, spontaneous, and free. Aniek showed me how much power there is in stillness, in thoughtfulness, in soaking in the world quietly.
That said, there’s so much I didn’t manage to do. Two months might sound like a long time, but it’s barely enough to scratch the surface of northern Thailand. Next time, I’m definitely making time for Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, the golden hilltop temple that overlooks the city — and I still can’t believe I didn’t get to the Sticky Waterfall (Bua Thong), where you can literally walk up the cascading rock thanks to its natural grip.
If You Go: My Chiang Mai Picks
Whether you’re there for Songkran or not, here are some places I genuinely loved — and would revisit in a heartbeat:
- Chiang Mai Jungle Coaster – Forest fun with a thrill. Just do it.
- Chiang Mai Night Market – There’s two and they’re both great! Who doesn’t love street food, incredible art work and one of a kind clothing!
- Baan Kang Wat – The kind of place where you accidentally spend three hours browsing ceramics and sipping iced tea.
- Khao Soi Village – Life-changing curry.
- Chom Café – For garden fairy vibes and a thousand Instagram stories.
- WTF Coffee Camp – Great coffee, gorgeous views, and yes, the name is part of the fun.
- The Giant Tree House – Worth the trek. Trust me.
What I Missed (and Will Be Doing Next Time)
Despite having two whole months, there are still things I didn’t get to. That’s the thing about Chiang Mai, it’s not a place you can rush.
At the top of my list for next time:
- Wat Phra That Doi Suthep – The golden hilltop temple that everyone talks about, and I somehow skipped.
- Sticky Waterfall (Bua Thong) – A natural marvel where you can climb straight up the rocks thanks to the weird, grippy texture.
Two months sounds like a long time, but in northern Thailand? It’s barely an introduction.
This Year: Island Edition
Fast forward to now — I’m in Koh Samui for Songkran 2025. My first island Songkran, and I can already tell it’ll be a completely different vibe. Less pollution, more palm trees. I’m swapping temples for beach bars this time around, but I’ll be carrying everything I learned in Chiang Mai with me.
If you’re heading to Chiang Mai for Songkran, soak it up (pun absolutely intended). Eat everything. Say yes to strangers. Join a Facebook group and meet your own Fanny or Aniek. Just don’t forget your waterproof pouch and a healthy sense of humour.
Chiang Mai gave me more than just a good time. It gave me a fresh start, deep connections, and a reminder that the best travel stories are the ones you don’t plan for.
Happy Songkran — wherever you’re celebrating!
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